Eight Row, a US restaurant that promotes sobriety
The duo’s environment is all the more powerful because alcoholism has never been a subject that restaurateurs openly discussed with their clients. Though Nichols’ food has been getting recognition – he was a semi-finalist for Best Chef Northwest and Pacific in this year’s James Beard Foundation Awards – his openness about his personal journey has made his restaurant more than just a place to eat. It has become the place where people can feel safe.
Nichols and his brother Ian own Eight Row. Ian lives in London, but visits Seattle frequently to pick cherries and spend some time at the restaurant. Ian and Janice DeWitt, the in-house beverage director and sommelier, work together to create the wine list each week via Zoom. Nichols acknowledges that he has a great partnership with his brother, but it’s taken time for them to reach their current level.
Nichols remembered that Nichols was “always fascinated by food, hospitality and wine”. We often ate at restaurants when we were living together in New York. He hated to live with me. He would lock himself up in his room, because he knew that I was going get drunk.
Nichols’ brother and family members staged an interven-tion the first time he went to rehab. Mark Murphy, a New York chef and restaurateur famous for his outpatient programmes, paid him to attend.
Nichols confessed, “I was not ready to become sober.” “I didn’t call my sponsor or do any step work. I lied about it to my therapist. I thought a beer would not ruin me. Then, a bottle is gone, followed by a bag full of cocaine. [I’m on] A bender lasting two months. I knew if I wanted to open a restaurant, live until I’m 40, have a relationship… I had to stop drinking.”
His involvement in Ben’s Friends – a support group for food and beverage workers who are struggling with addiction and substance abuse – was the beginning of his recovery. He and Willman Nichols co-founded the Seattle Chapter and hold weekly in-person meetings on Eight Row. Zoom is also available for those around the world who want to participate in fellowship.
Willman Nichlis brought me three NA cocktail to try after one of the meetings. The restaurant was closed at that time. She also gave me a large tray with NA spirits and homemade syrups. “This was what it took to create these drinks,” said she. This is not just soda or flavoured juice. The same amount of effort is required to make them as it is for our cocktails. They are also the exact same price.
Envy is a garnet-hued cocktail that shows off the craftmanship of its maker. Its slightly sweet and tannic flavors reminded me of Negroni with bitter botanicals and warm spices lingering at the back of my palate. The drink was a mix of small batch NA spirits like Wilderton Earthen (acidified spirit), Giffard Aperitif (aperitif), Pathfinder, and Kentucky 74 whisky.